Day 5: Chan Chich Lodge - Las Cuevas Research Station
There are many things Chan Chich Lodge is good at, not the least of which is providing guests with the upmost comfort in a superb setting. After a final night of deep sleep in my garden cabana, and breakfast overlooking the Mayan plaza (you must try the pork belly burrito! You will have worked it off by 9am I promise), I am transferred to the Gallon Jug airstrip, a short 15-minute drive away and on time for my charter Tropic Air flight bound for San Ignacio. Flip-flops notwithstanding, I’m almost certain Dalbert is a real pilot. A short 16 minutes later, here we are in San Ignacio, the main town here in the Spanish-influenced Cayo District.
Here I meet Rene, a man of big smiles and even bigger barbecue chicken cravings. I’d be ill-advised to ignore my guide’s recommendation for the “best barbecue chicken in Central America”, so our first port of call is his regular grilled poultry supplier on the side of a busy street in San Ignacio. With our chicken wings tightly wrapped, we set off on the 3-hour drive that will take us deep into the jungle (are you seeing a pattern here?) at Las Cuevas Research Station. On the way, we stop to spend a few hours visiting another Mayan site, the ancient city of Caracol. As we approach the first temple and howler monkeys play overhead, I know I’m with the right man. You see Rene here is of Mayan descent, and his passion for the ancient history of his people is contagious. There are no secrets for Rene, and I feel like Indiana Jones again. Or his sidekick maybe. Incredibly well-preserved 2,000-year-old ruins, barbecue chicken (Rene did not oversell the goods) and enchanting jungle sounds: paradise.
On the road again, landscapes are changing before my eyes. From the rainforest that shelters Caracol, we’re now climbing into the hills of the Mountain Pine Ridge Forest Reserve and my senses are all confused. Am I in Belize or British Columbia?! Sure, the red clay roads seem authentic, but these thousands of pine trees, rivers and waterfalls... a grizzly could cross the dirt road right about now and not seem out of place. I’m intrigued, but I’ll have to wait before breathing in this cool(er) mountain air as Rene steers back down toward the lowlands and more jungle.
Las Cuevas Research Station was built by the British Royal Engineers in the 1990s to serve as a military base. It’s now run by the Belizean government and used as a base for all kinds of research: biology, natural history, archaeology, etc. I’ll be spending a night here in the rustic cabanas; I wanted authentic and adventurous - well, I ought to be careful what I wish for. A generator runs from 6pm to 9pm every day, helping provide relief from the heat... never mind, there are no fans. Rene explains that the Royal Navy still sends their special forces here for jungle survival training. They get dumped by helicopter nearby and are collected three weeks later with a whole new appreciation for Western comforts and understanding of their pain thresholds. My pain threshold goes from 0 to cold beer so I settle down on a deck chair and admire the rainforest coming to life as the steamy sun calls it a day. A puma was seen last week five miles down the main trail dragging a white-tailed deer back into the overgrowth... but, you guessed it, luck is still eluding us and we have to settle once more for the nocturnal splendour of the jungle, which does nothing to dampen the mood. Here’s the thing with the jungle: by building trails and lodges in these remote locations, we have given ourselves access to these stunning habitats, but we are only borrowing time as nature plays by its own rules and owes nothing. This is why there is no such thing as a bad day in the jungle (unless you’re British Special Forces) - only lifelong memories.